Plumber Helper

A comprehensive study using nationwide data on hip and knee replacements in England has found that one in seventy-five patients require a revision of their joint replacement after three years. Although this compares favourably with the rest of the world, the study published in this week’s PLoS Medicine reinforces concerns about the new surgical techniques of hip resurfacing and unicondylar knee replacement.

Hip and knee replacements are amongst the most frequent surgical operations performed, with around 160,000 carried out in England and Wales in 2006. However, there is little evidence to compare the patient outcomes of hip and knee replacement with the many types of surgical techniques and prostheses used to replace the joint. Jan van der Meulen and colleagues from the Royal College of Surgeons used records from the National Joint Registry (NJR) for England and Wales to address this lack of evidence; the NJR being the largest national joint registry of any in the world. Since it was established in April 2003 the NJR has collected data available immediately following surgery, including patient characteristics, the type of prostheses and the surgical technique used to replace the joint, with the aim of providing patients, healthcare professionals and regulators with evidence to assess these prostheses and techniques.

In order to identify the revision rates – how often the hip or knee replacement had to be re-done – the researchers linked the NJR records with another database: the Hospital Episodes Statistics (HES), which contains information on all admissions to National Health Service (NHS) hospitals in England. They considered revisions for any reason in the three years following a hip or knee replacement. They also paid particular attention to hip resurfacing and unicondylar knee replacement, two techniques that are increasingly used but about which there is little evidence of their performance. Hip resurfacing was introduced in the 1990s for younger patients or those with less severe disease. Rather than replacing the head of the femur, as happens in total hip replacement, the diseased surface of the joint is replaced with a metal component. In unicondylar knee replacement only the damaged part of the knee is replaced and it also results in shorter recovery time.

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So you’re finally ready to start that long-delayed wood deck on the back of the house. It will be a nice addition to your home, and national estimates show that approximately 70% of the cost of a deck will be recovered when you resell your home.
But one question keeps nagging at you - what do I build it out of? There are a quite a few building materials available that are appropriate for exterior decks. Choosing the right one means taking into consideration your budget, aesthetics, and carpentry ability.
Pressure-Treated Lumber
This is the least expensive option, and is widely available across the country. Pressure-treatment consists of impregnating lumber of various sizes with an insect and rot resistant chemical. Manufacturers claim that lumber treated in this manner will remain serviceable for as long as thirty years. The result of this treatment is that the wood (most often a variety of pine) has a somewhat greenish tint and a high moisture content. This moisture content shows up in the back-breaking weight of the wood (especially the 4×4’s), and in its workability. As it dries out, pressure-treated lumber also tends to cup or bow more than other wood, and thin members (such as 2×2’s) can sometimes suffer from strange bending.
Nevertheless, pressure-treated wood remains popular because of its strength and the variety of sizes it comes in, typically: 6×6, 4×4, 2×10, 2×8, 2×6, 2×4, and 2×2. For decking, a popular 5/4 x 6 board is available with rounded edges. This material can span 24” and comes in lengths of up to 12’ to avoid unpleasant butt joints (where two boards meet at the end).
The major rap on pressure-treated lumber is the appearance. The green tint fades after a couple of years, leaving an uneven gray tone to the lumber. Attempts to stain pressure-treated wood never really seem to result in a satisfactory appearance. Semi-opaque stains seem to work best, in that they eliminate much of the unpleasant variations in the appearance of the decking. Most pressure-treated deck owners find exterior-grade paint to be the most appealing way to deal with the wood. Because of its appearance, many homeowners use pressure-treated lumber only for the substructure - the posts and joists of the deck - and choose a more visually appealing (and expensive) product for the decking and railings.
If you do choose to paint, wait at least a year for the decking to “season” or dry out enough so that the paint will adhere properly.
A few warnings in working with pressure-treated lumber: Wear a dust mask when cutting or sanding do not burn wood scraps in your fireplace, and wash your hands frequently. If you can stand working in gloves, they are advisable in dealing with this product.
Western Red Cedar
This widely admired wood is a very common decking material, owing to its combination of beauty and affordability. Red Cedar 2×4’s and 5/4 boards are often used as decking over a pressure-treated structure. Although somewhat structurally weaker than pressure-treated lumber, cedar makes up for it by being a pure joy to work with. The smooth, even graining makes this wood very easy to cut, rout, and sand. Although 5/4 decking are often installed on joists 24” on center, a safer bet is to drop down to 16” on center to eliminate any deflection.
There are a few oddities to using red cedar you need to be aware of, however:
*In its natural state, red cedar has a beautiful light orange tint that is widely admired. Exposed to the elements, this tint disappears within a couple of seasons and turns to a pleasant gray patina. Attempts to use clear waterproofing coatings to retain the original color don’t work, either because they must be reapplied religiously and evenly, or because rain and sun fight their way past them. There are three solutions to this dilemma: Learn to love the gray tone of the weathered deck (it really is pretty in its own right); stain the deck with a light semi-transparent stain that mimics the original red color. Various brands are available, but frankly I haven’t found one that faithfully recreates the color, so choose carefully and practice on scrap pieces before trying it on your decking Every two years or so, use a pressure washer and chemical “deck brightner,” which will restore the deck to something relatively close to its original appearance.
*Galvanized nails or screws cause the cedar to “bleed,” which results in black streaks washing below the nail hole. This is a peculiarity to cedar, in that galvanized nails don’t have this effect on any other wood. To combat this, use stainless steel nails, coated nails, or coated screws. The stainless steel nails are very expensive, so you may want to take a look at the coated products. They are even available in a tint that is compatible with the color of the cedar;
*Cedar is soft, and if you use nails to attach the decking, the cedar will tend to rise up over the course of a couple of seasons, pulling away from the nail. This isn’t a big problem, and can be easily solved by simply nailing the boards back down every two years or so. If is bothers you however, install the decking boards with coated screws and you’ll never have a problem.
Recycled Products
There are several brands of plastic aggregate decking products on the market. The most popular is manufactured by TREX Corporation, and consists of roughly 1×6 planking manufactured out of recycled by-products. Naturally it is rot and weather resistant, and comes in gray and brown colors. This product is also dimensionally stable and easy to work with, an important attribute on decks, and one that suggests that it will give longer service and have lower maintenance requirements than a wood deck.
There are three drawbacks to recycled products. How important they are depends on your needs:
Appearance: Recycled products aren’t going to fool anyone into thinking they are wood. While their appearance is pleasant it its own right, they are obviously a manufactured product;
Cost: Recycled products currently are competitive with cedar decking (though not with pressure-treated). Judging by appearances, most homeowners would rather spend equivalent dollars on cedar than a recycled product. If you’re more interested in low-maintenance, however, you would probably choose the recycled product;
Strength: Recycled products are much weaker than either pressure-treated or cedar decking. You may notice some bouncing in your deck at 16” spans, so a safer bet would be to install your joists at 12” on center.
Redwood
Redwood is the champagne of decking materials. It is an absolutely gorgeous material, combining the attributes of beauty and strength. Because of its denseness, redwood requires high caliber carpentry tools and know-how. If you can afford a redwood deck, you can well afford to hire someone who knows how to work with this beautiful wood. So don’t attempt to build with redwood unless you are a very capable carpenter with quality tools. Redwood holds its color well over time, but because of its deep and consistent color, it can be supplemented with a very light semi-transparent stain to keep its appearance consistent for years.
Redwood also has an even more expensive and beautiful cousin called purple heart. This wood has a deep purple hue with reddish undertones, and is sometimes found in expensive outdoor furniture. Don’t even try to price out a deck made from this wood. It would only make you cry.
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The first particles have been injected into the biggest atom smasher on the planet, marking the start of the countdown to probing the secrets of the universe.

Scientists are pushing ahead with powering up the machine, shrugging off speculative fears that it could destroy all life on Earth by sucking it into a black hole.

Starting up the biggest scientific experiment ever built is not as simple as flipping a switch.

Earlier this month, the successful injection of the first particles - protons - into part of the Large Hadron Collider (LHC) experiment at CERN, the European Centre for Nuclear Research, took place.

This weekend, scientists are hoping to complete testing of another part of the machine, which sits in a 17 mile circular tunnel approximately 100 metres underneath the Franco-Swiss border, with the aim of seeing particles travel the whole way around for the first time.

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For the first time, scientists have proven that “beer goggles” are real — other people really do look more attractive to us if we have been drinking.
Surprisingly, the beer goggles effect was not limited to just the opposite sex among the ostensibly straight volunteers recruited for the study — they also rated people from their own sex as more attractive.

Scientists in England gave 84 heterosexual college students chilled lime-flavored drinks that were either non-alcoholic or given a dose of vodka equivalent in alcohol to a large glass of wine or a pint-and-a-half of beer.

After 15 minutes, the volunteers were shown photos of 40 other college students from both sexes. Both men and women who drank booze found these faces more attractive, “a roughly 10 percent increase in ratings of attractiveness,” said researcher Marcus Munafo, an experimental psychologist at the University of Bristol in England.

The researchers also asked volunteers to rate their mood, “and there were no differences on those measures in the alcohol group compared to the no-alcohol group,” Munafo added. “This suggests that the effect we observed wasn’t due to a general change in mood.”

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Tetra-Amido Macrocyclic Ligands (TAMLs) are environmentally friendly catalysts with a host of applications for reducing and cleaning up pollutants, and a prime example of “green chemistry.” Carnegie Mellon University’s Terry Collins, the catalyst’s inventor, believes that the small-molecule catalysts have the potential to be even more effective than previously proven. Collins will discuss how iron-TAMLs (Fe-TAMLs) work and areas for further research, citing evidence from mechanistic and kinetic studies of the catalyst on Monday, Aug. 18 at the 236th national meeting of the American Chemical Society in Philadelphia.

The oxidation catalysts are the first highly effective mimics of peroxidase enzymes. When partnered with hydrogen peroxide, they are able to convert harmful pollutants into less toxic substances. Made from the common elements of biochemistry, carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen around a reactive iron core, Fe-TAMLs are less toxic and usable at extremely low concentrations. Additionally, their composition also results in very strong chemical bonds that are not broken down by the highly reactive oxygen intermediaries formed during the reaction with hydrogen peroxide.

“Our recent studies into what occurs during the chemical reaction caused by TAMLs proves that the catalysts are indeed really close mimics of peroxidase enzymes,” said Collins, the Thomas Lord Professor of Chemistry and director of the Center for Green Science at Carnegie Mellon. “By knowing the mechanics of the reactions, we can fine tune the catalysts for even better performance.”

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Whether buying a new home or protecting the assets of your current home, having household insurance is essential. Why you ask? There are two major reasons for homeowners to buy insurance:

1. A home is one of the most important assets that a person has. You need to protect your home from damage and destruction!
- Property Protection: The better your coverage, the less you will have to pay out of your own pocket if disaster strikes.
- Self Protection: You need enough liability coverage to protect yourself from lawsuits resulting from your negligence.

2. Mortgage lenders require homeowners to carry insurance to protect the lender’s investment from damage or loss.

But where to buy the best home insurance in the UK? Well before making a decision I highly recommend an article on CNN Money on Insuring Your House. The article gets into among many things, top things to know, Why insurance costs so much, getting the proper coverage and picking an insurer.

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A clean, fresh-smelling home may actually be bad for your health, depending on what type of cleaning and air freshening products you use.

Recent research suggests that exposure to cleaning products or air fresheners that contain a certain volatile organic compound (VOC) called 1,4 dicholorobenzene (1,4 DCB), can reduce lung function by 4 percent. Another study found that the use of spray household cleaners could increase the risk of developing asthma by nearly 50 percent.

Yet a third study, reported by University of Washington researchers this week in the journal Environmental Impact Assessment Review, found that the fumes from air fresheners and fragrances contain hazardous toxins, none of which were listed on product labels since companies are not required by the federal government to disclose the ingredients in these products.

“I don’t think everybody’s getting asthma from air fresheners and house cleaners, but this suggests that more research needs to be done,” said Dr. Jennifer Appleyard, chief of allergy and immunology at St. John Hospital in Detroit.

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Each summer, as temperature and humidity rise, mold invades thousands of homes. Some 10% of the U.S. population is sensitive to mold, and invisible mold spores cause countless allergic reactions, asthma attacks, and sinus infections, according to the American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology.
Mold also wreaks havoc on building materials. In nature, mold breaks down decaying organic matter, but in a home, it can decompose floors, walls, and other structures.
Fortunately, mold growth can be controlled.
Detecting Mold
– Recognize Visible Mold — Mold grows in damp, dark environments. Commonly found in bathrooms and basements, it’s usually slimy or fuzzy in appearance, and its color may be green, black, orange, or purple.
– Be Aware of Hidden Mold — Mold can grow behind walls and wallpaper, above ceiling tiles, and under sinks. If you notice a musty odor in a particular room, it’s likely coming from hidden mold. You can check for mold with a Mold Test Kit.
Preventing Mold
– Clean Up Spills Immediately — If you have a spill, leak, or any kind of water damage in your home, clean and dry out the area immediately. Mold starts growing within 24-48 hours.
– Keep Indoor Humidity Low — Dehumidifiers keep the humidity low by removing excess moisture from the air. Keep your home’s relative humidity below 50% to prevent mold growth.
– Protect Your Basement — Basements are notorious for mold and mildew. Use a basement dehumidifier to prevent mold and mildew growth.
– Defend Your Crawlspace — Crawlspaces are dark and damp — ideal environments for mold. Place a plastic vapor barrier on open earth to reduce moisture. Many crawlspaces require a crawlspace dehumidifier to keep the mold at bay.
Cleaning Up Mold
– Carefully Clean Visible Mold — If you see visible mold growth, carefully clean it up with water and detergent. It’s impossible to completely remove mold from a porous surface such as drywall; this material will have to be removed and discarded.
– Protect Yourself While Cleaning — The Environmental Protection Agency recommends wearing an N-95 respirator mask, gloves, and goggles while cleaning mold. Black mold or toxic mold (usually found in buildings with severe water damage) produces dangerous toxins that can cause neurological symptoms and even death. If you encounter extensive mold growth, or if you suspect that it may be toxic mold, contact a mold remediation professional.

Indoor mold is a major cause of sinus infections, allergies, and asthma attacks, not to mention structural damage to buildings. “But if you control your home’s humidity, then mold doesn’t stand a chance.”

The Marble Institute of America on Friday responded to the studies by Rice University physics professor W.J. Llope saying that granite countertops pose no significant health risk.

Earlier, Llope was cited by Houston Chronicle as finding that some granite countertops generate gamma radiation and radon gas at a level that is considered dangerous by the U.S. government.

In its statement, the MIA categorized the studies as junk science and cited new U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) statements to say that radon gas and radiation released from granite countertops do not pose a risk.

The MIA represents producers and quarriers, fabricators, installers, distributors and contractors worldwide in the natural dimension stone industry.

“While natural minerals such as granite may occasionally emit radon gas, the levels of radon attributable to such sources are not typically high,” the EPA statement was quoted by MIA as saying.

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Granite countertops are red-hot — and not just because of their soaring popularity and high resale value. It turns out that some granite quarried for furnishings brings with it relatively high levels of uranium, which is not only radioactive but releases radon gas as it decays.

Sales of granite countertops have exploded tenfold in the last decade, as has the number of different styles now available. At the same time, a debate has been simmering about how safe the attractive surfaces actually are.

There have been a number of reports of people observing above-background levels of radiation coming from their kitchens, and the EPA has received a growing number of complaints, according to the Times. Officials have noted that some exotic and striated granite varieties from Brazil and Namibia, in particular, have been most suspect.

The Marble Institute of America calls any worries about radiation from granite countertops “ludicrous,” saying that any possible levels are insignificant compared with background radiation from space and the Earth’s crust, or even X-rays and smoke detectors. Yet one person told the paper her house had radon levels of 100 picocuries per liter of air because of her granite countertops, when the EPA recommends action if radon levels exceed 4 picocuries per liter.

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Bricks are one of the most durable and beautiful facades in building construction, but even they need occasional attention. If your brick are beginning to get moldy or stained from water splash, with a little work and common chemicals, they can look almost new.

Steps
Choose the type of stain or dirt you are dealing with. Mold, mildew, or algae require different methods and chemicals than do rust stains or cement and mortar smears.
Clean your brick with a solution of chlorine bleach if you have mildew or mold problems.
Mix chlorine bleach with water in a large bucket, using equal proportions.
Pour the solution into a pump type garden sprayer, and pump it up.
Wet a section of wall (or patio, if cleaning pavers) with a water hose.
Spray the bleach solution on the surface, beginning at the top, on a wall, soaking it thoroughly.
Allow the bleach solution to react with the stains for a few minutes, but do not leave it long enough for it to begin to dry.
Rinse a small section of wall to see if the solution is having the desired effect.
For serious stains, scrub the wall with pure bleach, using an acid brush on a broom-type handle.
Rinse the wall thoroughly with water. Be careful not to let the bleach solution dry on the wall before rinsing.
Use an acid solution to clean mortar stains, rust from irrigation well water, or soil that a bleach solution doesn’t clean to your satisfaction.
Buy muratic acid or an acid based masonary detergent like Shurclean, available at home improvement stores, hardware stores, or building supply centers.
Fill a plastic buck 2/3 full of clean water. Add acid at a proportion of about 1 part acid to 3 parts water, but do not fill the bucket too full, as you will not want this solution to splash out accidentally.
Wet the wall or other surface with a garden hose.
Brush the diluted acid solution on the wall, scrubbing as you apply it with an acid brush.
After applying and scrubbing with the acid solution, allow the acid to work for 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to let the wall dry out.
After giving the solution time to work, rinse thoroughly with copious amounts of water.
Rent a pressure washer for very stubborn soil or stains, being careful not to “etch” the masonary joints or brick when using this method.
Rinse all surfaces exposed to either of the above mentioned cleaning solutions, using plenty of water to dilute them to prevent damage to surfaces or plants.
Consider sealing the brick to prevent future staining or soiling. Use a siloxane or silicone sealant, applied following the manufacturer’s directions.

Tips
Wear old clothing, rubber gloves, and goggles when applying the cleaning solutions mentioned above.
Work when there is minimal wind to prevent spray from going where you do not want it to.
Work on shaded areas, or shaded sides of the project when possible.

Warnings:
Avoid contact with skin when using even dilute solutions of acid or bleach.
Never mix acid and bleach when cleaning.
Do not breath concentrated vapors from these cleaning solutions.

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Plywood is an extremely strong product composed of thin sheets of veneers glued to each other at right angles. Plywood thickness varies, but the most common are ¼”, ½”, and ¾”. Panels with tongue and groove edges are available for use in sheathing floors. Minimum thicknesses for various applications: Roofing: ½”; Floor sheathing: ¾”; Floor underlayment installed atop the floor sheathing: ¼”; Wall sheathing: ½”.
Types: Plywood comes in a dizzying variety of types, ranging from simple interior grade plywood, acceptable for normal inside woodworking projects to marine grade plywood, made with waterproof glues to resist moisture. Special plywood products made with smooth surfaces and no voids are called underlayments, and are appropriate for use on top of the plywood subfloor as a base for vinyl or ceramic tile and carpeting. If you’re building furniture or cabinetry of any kind, you’ll want to use hardwood veneer plywoods, made with a face veneer of oak, birch, maple, or walnut. Softwood veneers (pine or fir) are used for many siding, roofing, and general construction activities for their ease of nailing and general economy.
Grading: Plywood quality is determined by a grading system, with each face receiving its own letter grade: A is the highest quality (no major blemishes, sanded smooth); B grade may contain minor blemishes; C grade has noticeable patches and is not appropriate for finished products; D grade can contain holes, knots, and splits, and is used as a purely economy product where it will be hidden or appearances do not matter. In the case of hardwood veneers, a combination letter and number system is used, with the letter referring to the face grade and the number referring to the back grade (the opposite side of the board). These rankings range from AA for the best face grade to E for the lowest utility grade (pallets); and 1 for the best back grade to 4 for the worst.
Appearance: Plywood veneers are cut and arranged in different ways to achieve different looks. Most plywood is cut with a rotary blade, but flat-sliced veneers (produced by moving the log back and forth over a knife) result in the most attractive veneers. Here are the most common ways in which in which veneers are matched on a piece of plywood:
Random Matched: Veneers are not matched with any regard to grain or color;
Slip Matched: Veneers are matched with the same face always upward;
Book Matched: Veneers are joined as if they are two pages of the same book. This is one of the most common types of veneers in finished furniture; and also the most expensive type.
Other Board Products
Particleboard (also known as flakeboard) is made of sawdust and wood shavings bonded with resin under high pressure. It’s a dense, heavy board ideal for economy cabinetry or shelving, as a base for plastic laminate countertops, and for flooring underlayment. Particle board breaks down quickly when exposed to moisture, so it should never be used in exterior or wet conditions. Also, never use it as structural flooring - only as an underlayment atop the structural plywood floor. In addition, particleboard does not hold nails well at all, and the cheaper grades (coarser) do not even hold screws that well. It does glue well, and although it needs to be primed with a sealer first, accepts paint very well. Particleboard comes in many thicknesses, the most common of which are ½”, 5/8″, and ¾”.
Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) / Hardboard are two products that are similar to particleboard, but have the advantage of being made of smaller fibers. They are therefore denser, smoother, and stronger than particleboard (and more expensive, as well). MDF is used mostly by cabinetmakers and countertop manufacturers, and is prized for its ability to hold screws and nails well, and its easy workability. You may often see MDF used as a base for wood or laminate wall panels you can buy for your bath, kitchen, or den. Hardboard is an even denser version of MDF, and is made with waterproof glues for use in home exterior siding products. You may also find it in your home as garage perforated pegboard, drawer bottoms, and the backs of cabinets or other furniture. Occasionally it is used as a floor underlayment.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is an economy product touted as a replacement for plywood in many situations. This product is made of strands of wood bonded in various directions on each face, with the various layers bonded at right angles to each other. Although it is rated nearly as strong as plywood, OSB is very susceptible to moisture and, for that reason, is not the preferred product for roof sheathing or floor decking, unless you are confident the board will be protected from moisture shortly after installation. OSB is ideal as wall sheathing and attic flooring.
Medium Density Overlay (MDO) is a very expensive, high-quality exterior grade of plywood with a smooth surface. It is widely used by sign painters and furniture makers for its denseness, weatherability, and ease of use. MDO can be purchased with paper overlay on one or both of its finishes for applications requiring an exceptionally smooth finish.
No product is as useful as plywood for making home projects with a durable and paint-ready finish. Pick your product and and enjoy making a useful addition to your home!

Looking for ways to soothe the soul? A romantic setting does a lot to calm the frenzy of the outside world. Besides, a personal retreat may be just what you need to jumpstart the lovelife again.
Sometimes there is more to the romantic look than lace and frilly frou-frous. It is, in a sense, a way for you to make your personal fantasies come true. Whether you fashion your room with a theme such as an Arabian Nights tented boudoir, an attic room or painter’s garret, a cozy cottage room or a grand country estate, there are romance elements that will always be classic.
Pay particular attention to flattering colors, details, and comfort. Rely too, on the natural splendor of a setting. Does the view take in the ocean, a pasture, or a garden? In new construction, you can play it up to the hilt with: beautiful window frames in unusual shapes, incorporate multi-paned framing or add diamond insets or special glass in order to frame vistas. In addition, think about adding good bones in the way of architectural elements such as columns, curved moldings and ornamentation.
Use pale, ice cream colors that give a glow to the skin; colors that make people look good. Shades of yellow, peach, and sage have a soft sheen when painted, and, coupled with an old-world finishes such as sponging, strié, or marbling, will add class and heritage to the background - a big plus, the old world look. Fanciful wall mural gardens or trompe l’oeil of idyllic places can transport your romantic mind to anywhere in the world! Tea-stained carpets in Oriental, Persian or Aubusson style will only add to the dramatic, rich setting.
Seductive furniture is a mandatory element in the romantic room. Try a loveseat or a tête-à-tête piece and make an effort to add extra down filling for the seat cushions, arms and pillows. The same for padded headboards, use the extra batting and gentle touches to make it especially sumptuous.
Hand-painted furniture and chinoiserie give case goods an exotic touch. You may even opt to buy pieces fashioned with a touch of the Rococo period - woodcarvings featuring cherubs, shells or flowers. The French Empire style too, reminds us of Napoleon and Josephine who chose this type of furniture with its strong, straight lines juxtaposed against fabulous fabrics decorated with, what else? Bees! Think about using magnificent beds, bolstered seating areas and petite daybeds with fancy iron scrollwork.
Fabric treatments in the romantic room say, “More, more!” Choose silk, satin, and velour or velvets. Play with classical patterns. Think about pleating a ceiling, having fabric walls or draping a bed. Pattern ideas usually boast beautiful toiles, peacock feathers, dragonflies’ wings, and large, bountiful chintzes filled with roses and small bouquets of forget-me-nots.
For windows, think silk stripes, and make sure there are full-length under-curtains to add depth and fullness, and then let them billow on the floor just slightly. They can be topped by cornices, antique rods or plaster fixtures. For a surprise, you may want to add tremendous cascades of flowers over the drapes and pin them up with butterfly-topped nail heads. Whatever treatment you decide on, keep a keen mind’s eye pointed to a layered look and you can’t go wrong.

Architects are trained in the art and science of building construction. A typical architect attends college for five to six years, serves a three-year internship, and passes a four day registration exam before he is licensed to practice.
Architects typically follow a set pattern in working with clients to design a building that meets their needs. The process has often been compared to a funnel, by which a wide amount of information is gradually narrowed into a specific design. This pattern can be adjusted or shortened depending on the size and complexity of the project, but normally consists of the following steps:
· Programming
· Schematic Design
· Design Development
· Construction Documents
· Programming consists of developing an understanding of the client’s needs. The architect’s main goal in the programming phase is to understand what types of spaces the client needs in his building, how they relate to one another, and what general characteristics each space must have. This information is normally in written form, though it can consist of small symbolic drawings such as bubble diagrams, used to show the spatial relationships among building areas. With a small project such as a home, programming may be little more than a few notes and a conversation; with a much larger project like a hospital, a programming document could run to hundreds of pages. During the programming phase, the architect will also talk with the client about image and style issues.
· Schematic Design is the phase in which the architect quickly looks at several options to achieving the client’s goals. He will examine the site on which the building is to be constructed, exploring ways to best use the site to obtain the necessary building area, parking, landscaping, and site amenities such as ponds. He will study alternative schemes to arranging the spaces within the building to best achieve the client’s needs. Small, quick sketches (called thumbnail sketches) of the plans and elevations (exterior faces) of the building are used to explore design ideas in an attempt to develop a coherent theme for the project. Toward the end of this phase, the architect may meet with his client to show him the most promising scheme, or several schemes, to determine with him which route seems most desirable. The Schematic Design phase is basically a period of exploration and experimentation for the architect.
· Design Development: After the client and architect determine the best of the alternative design schemes to pursue, the architect begins narrowing the funnel, producing more detailed plans and elevations, selecting exterior materials, and setting the final site plan design. He may prepare outline specifications, an preliminary version of the detailed specifications which will ultimately describe every installed item in the project. He may also draw a perspective (or three-dimensional view of the building), or construct a model to help himself and the client clearly see the appearance of the structure. The architect may have several meetings with his client during this phase, making the sure the design is truly meeting his needs. Once the floor plan is set, the architect will work more closely with his engineering consultants to integrate the structural, plumbing, electrical, and mechanical systems into the building. The end of this phase occurs when the client give final approval to the design and authorizes the architect to begin the construction documents.
· Construction Documents are the plans and specifications (written instructions) by which the building will be constructed. These drawings take up approximately fifty percent of the architect’s total time on the project, and require a great deal of detail. The major decisions such as materials, finishes, and colors are made by the client. But the architect typically makes hundreds of building decisions on behalf of the owner, ranging from the mundane (vents) to the major (windows). Together with his consultants, the architect assembles a set of large drawings and a book of specifications, which together form the construction documents. On a large project, the drawings can run into hundreds of 2’ x 3’, or larger sheets. The specifications, even on modest projects, can equal the size of a large city phone book. These drawings were once produced with ink on linen, but today most architects use computer-aided drafting or reprographics, two techniques for limiting the amount of time spent producing original drawings and making corrections. The level of detail present in the construction documents can mean the difference between a poorly or well-constructed building. The care of material selection can mean the difference between a building that is within or above the owner’s budget. That is why architects devote so much time to the Construction Document phase of the project.
· Once the construction documents are finished, the architect will usually have a thorough review with the client. When the client is satisfied that the documents fulfill his goals, the architect will arrange for the documents to be bid out to several contractors, or negotiate with a selected contractor, depending on the client’s desires. After the bids are received, the architect will negotiate with the low bidder if his price is above the client’s budget, and make changes in the documents if necessary to bring the project back within budget. Occasionally, projects must be bid again if they are severely over budget.
· Once a contractor is selected, and underway, the architect makes periodic observations of the building as it is erected. He does not supervise the work, but does inspect to generally ensure that the building is being constructed in accordance with the contract documents.
· Increasingly, architects are teaming up with contractors in what are termed alternative delivery projects. These include design/build arrangements, where a contractor/architect team can provide the owner with a turn-key (or complete) project, eliminating the sometimes contentious bidding and construction disputes present in the traditional method of selecting contractors. They may also cooperate to provide fast-track services, or design that occurs as the building is being constructed, when clients face severe time restrictions.
Architects are also interested in aspects of green design (environmentally conscious design), energy-efficient design, and life-cycle costing, or choosing materials based on their long-term maintenance value.

Empire’s Shop-at-Home Service is one of the many things that makes this company special!

Home remodeling is a rewarding thing to do, especially when you use the services of Empire Today.  Empire Today has been a leading provider of installed Home Furnishings and Home Improvements for more than 45 years, with over one million satisfied customers.  The company was founded in 1959 by Seymour Cohen and was a family-run business under its original name, Empire Carpet. Empire Today even has a Wikipedia page here. They have cute commercials too, check out the video below:

Empire Today’s ever-expanding line of quality home products make it easier and faster for you to improve the look and value of your home. They provide superior service and world-class customer care to more than 50 major metropolitan areas in the U.S. and Canada – making Empire Today your convenient and trusted partner for all your home improvement needs. Read the rest of this entry &raquo

The backflow device prevents mixing of drinking and treated water from flowing into the public water system by maintaining a constant higher pressure in its pipes. Many types of backflow prevention devices also have test ports so that they can be tested or examined to ensure that they are functioning properly. A check valve is a common form of a backflow preventer.

Backflow prevention protects the potable water system from minor, moderate, and severe hazards. There are over 10,000 reported cases of backflow contamination each year.

Backflow devices, are about the size of a suitcase, and are typically installed in front yards near the water meter. Many homeowners, especially in older communities, are likely to object when they find out installation means tearing up their landscaping. Many states and/or local municipalities actually require annual testing of such devices.
An outdoor 18-inch-tall brass gadget, which prevent the accidental contamination of the public drinking-water supply, costs about $500 to install by a private contractor and could require to licensed plumber to test every year at about $60.

 For your viewing pleasure we bring you Chilli - the 6′6″ (from ground to shoulder) tall cow from Somerset, England. The 9-year-old Chilliwho is said to be a friendly and gentle cow is currently being assessed by the Guinness Book Of Records for the title of Britain’s tallest cow.  Chilli lives at the Ferne Animal Sanctuary in Chard, Somerset, after he was left on their doorstep aged just six-days-old.

Nine years later, Chilli has kept on growing, and staff believe the giant will smash a record for Britain’s tallest ever cow.  The typical cow stands about 5 ft.  Chilli does weigh over a ton but is quite lean and not as fat as many of his companions.  Slap a couple of horns on Chilli and he would make a great “Babe the Blue Ox”, should there be a casting call for a new Paul Bunyan film.

Source

I am sure all of you have noticed how much money it costs to buy a tank of gasoline these days.  And perhaps you have also picked up on the rising price of commodities including the food we buy.  Heck gold shot through the $1,000 barrier for awhile.   Sure things cost more in the US but it’s not just that.  I have been traveling abroad lately and it’s stunning to see how little the dollar is worth.  The Euro is basically worth twice the value of the US dollar, which has also slid against Asian currencies as well.  Being a baby boomer like many, I have spent a large part of my life saving money for retirement.  Having enough money now is like the carrot at the end of the string.  It’s hard to save enough when everything costs more and the dollar becomes worth less and less.  These are some difficult times right now and they look like they are going to get even worse for quite a while.

In case you′re looking, for Plumbing services in Seattle, I want to tell you about my friends at Good Services. They can handle your plumbing, sewer and heating needs with service for single family residential homes, property management companies, apartment buildings, coperatives, condo associations and businesses.

Good Services has been offering Seattle plumbing and heating services since 1909. The company has been on Capitol Hill since 1971 (first as Bruce the Plumber) and was well known to Mr. Frees. An agreement was reached and the combined company ‘Good Services’, continues to operate out of the Jay Frees building on 12th Ave. Since this time Good Services/Jay Frees has increased its area of work to include heating and radiant heating. Initially it had the only RPA Certified radiant heating technicians in Seattle.

Their service technicians have tremendous experience in the repair and remodeling of a wide range of plumbing fixtures and heating systems found in some of the oldest homes and buildings of Seattle.

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According to a new study published in the Journal of Nutrition, Daily consumption of chocolate bars made with a patented combination of plant sterols and cocoa flavanols may affect cardiovascular risk by lowering elevated cholesterol levels and improving blood pressure.

The study conducted in collaboration with researchers from the University of Illinois and Mars, Incorporated found that, as part of a balanced, low-fat diet, the daily consumption of CocoaVia® dark chocolate bars with added plant sterols (natural plant extracts) significantly lowered total cholesterol by 2 percent and LDL cholesterol (or “bad” cholesterol) by 5.3 percent in individuals with elevated cholesterol. In contrast, when the same study participants consumed dark chocolate bars without added plant sterols, neither total nor LDL cholesterol level was significantly affected, supporting that the consumption of plant sterols was responsible for the cholesterol reductions. Interestingly, the regular consumption of these flavanol-rich chocolate bars was also shown to result in a significant reduction in systolic blood pressure, reducing systolic blood pressure by 5 percent after 8 weeks. Of importance is that these improvements in cholesterol and blood pressure were observed without any adverse affects on HDL (’good’ cholesterol), triglycerides, or body weight.

The study authors suggest that specially formulated foods, like the chocolate bars used in this research, could have potential to help support cardiovascular health as part of a healthy diet. This is important, since, according to the American Heart Association, nearly half of all Americans are living with high cholesterol levels and one third are afflicted with high blood pressure, putting them at risk for serious cardiovascular disease.

“We know that Americans are increasingly looking for foods to help them maintain their health,” said study co-author Catherine Kwik-Uribe, PhD, research scientist for Mars, Incorporated, creators of the CocoaVia® line of heart-healthy snacks. “Our study supports the possibility that chocolate products specially formulated to contain both plant sterols and cocoa flavanols can, in the context of a balanced diet, be a practical and enjoyable dietary strategy to help support healthy cholesterol levels and a healthy blood pressure”

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To start with don’t compare plumbers Grant Wilson or Jason Hawes to “Ghost Busters” because they hate that.

For the stars of a hit show on the Sci-Fi channel, “Ghost Hunters,”  names can be deceiving.? Hawes said, “We aren’t walking around with hoovers strapped to our backs,”  and they have never been slimed either.

Wilson added, “We have done lectures at colleges and they’ll play that song and we’re like, ‘Can you just turn that off’ ? drives us crazy ? because we’re so not that.”

Hawes and Wilson have been hunting ghosts on their own for nearly two decades. It all began after they encountered a few paranormal experiences of their own, experiences they didn’t want to talk about. The phenomena inspired them to found TAPS: The Atlantic Paranormal Society, a group that tries to help people who think their house, farm, garage or anything might be haunted.

“We are not looking for ghosts,” Wilson said. “We’re looking to disprove them.”

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The first step to removing a carpet spot is to determine what caused the spot or stain, in the first place. Most commercial and institutional carpet spots and stains are caused by spills. But cleaning professionals should find out if the substance causing the spot is a solid or a liquid because each case requires separate spotting agents.
If it’s a spill, you want to reliquify it,flushing the area with water before using any carpet-spotting solutions.

Once the carpet is wet, use a clean, white towel to blot up the water, let the water dwell, then blot it up again.

When working with solid substances, “Start with dry solid spotters, then go to liquid spotters.”  “Once you wet something, you won’t have as much success with dry spotters.”

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This handsome birdbath is also  a soothing fountain. Go green with this Solar Birdbath Fountain, which needs no wiring or plumbing. The sun does all the work, transforming this eye-catching birdbath into a bubbling spout of water.
The soothing sound of trickling water invites the birds and adds a relaxing atmosphere to your patio.
It’s  easy to use, you can set the birdbath up in minutes to provide a cool welcome to feathered friends. Direct sunlight activates the birdbath’s fountain, bringing the relaxing sounds of splashing water to your yard.

In addition to creating the relaxing sound of splashing water, solar power eliminates the need to run cords or install pipes. The built-in, high-quality solar panel powers the recirculating pump, which is out of sight in a covered reservoir. Aluminum with a verdigris finish.

If the sun makes the fountain spray too high, or if you just want a different look, remove the fountain head and enjoy a peaceful bubbler.

Coated silica particles filter out toxins, pathogens

Tiny particles of pure silica coated with an active material could be used to remove toxic chemicals, bacteria, viruses, and other hazardous materials from water much more effectively and at lower cost than conventional water purification methods, according to researchers writing in the current issue of the International Journal of Nanotechnology.

Peter Majewski and Chiu Ping Chan of the Ian Wark Research Institute, at the University of South Australia, explain that the availability of drinking quality water is fast becoming a major socio-economic issue across the globe, especially in the developing world. However, water purification technology is often complicated, requires sophisticated equipment and is expensive to run and maintain. Moreover, it usually requires a final costly disinfection stage. The Australian team suggests that nanotechnology could provide a simple answer to the problem.

The researchers have investigated how silica particles can be coated easily with a nanometer-thin layer of active material based on a hydrocarbon with a silicon-containing anchor. The coating is formed through a chemical self-assembly process so involves nothing more than stirring the ingredients to make the active particles.

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Intro:

Selecting the right ceiling fan isn’t just about choosing the right color and style. There are some key factors that you must consider your decision in order to get the maximum efficiency and enjoyment from your fan.  

Ceiling Fan Fundamentals
Fans do not actually lower room temperature, but instead circulate or ventilate air, which speeds up the evaporation of perspiration from the skin so we feel cooler (think of it as a wind chill factor inside your home).  The ventilation process also makes a room more comfortable by replacing hot, stuffy indoor air with fresh, outdoor air.  It is estimated that moving air with a fan has the equivalent effect of lowering body temperature by 3 degrees Celsius - very much appreciated on those hot summer days!
Motor
The motor is the ‘heart′ of the fan, and you certainly do NOT want a fan with a motor that clicks, hums or buzzes during operation (just TRY to sleep in a room with this type of annoyance).   Cheaper fans typically have an outer covering or case that is made up of very thin metal.  As you can imagine, these thin components may vibrate and rattle more than your more expensive models, which are more solid in design.  Thus the old adage “you get what you pay for” is very true in the case of fans.

Blades
People often mistakenly think only in terms of aesthetics when choosing a fan - selection is usually narrowed down to how well the particular blades (color or design) fit in with the decor of a room. 

 Blade architecture will determine how effectively air is moved; more specifically blade pitch.  An optimum pitch is 14 degrees, which maximizes the efficiency of air movement. 

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Using the correct tool or combination of tools is the secret of getting things undone when doing home maintenance jobs. Brute strength is not usually the answer.

When trying to loosen a screw the screwdriver tip has to fit snugly in the slot or star. If it’s too small it will not properly grip and probably slide out of the slot and mutilate the head of the screw. Once damaged, screws become almost impossible to remove with a screwdriver.

Not only does the screwdriver have to fit the screw snugly but the length of the screwdriver also has a bearing on how easily you’ll remove the screw. (in this case length does matter) The longer the shaft of the screwdriver, the more torque or turning power you can exert on the screw and the more likely you’ll get the screw out. By grasping the square shaft of a screwdriver with an adjustable wrench you further increase the power you exert by turning the wrench and screwdriver together.
Once the head of a screw or bolt is mutilated the slot can be cut deeper with a hacksaw sometimes. When that won’t work, you need a tool called a screw extractor or easy-out. Screw extractors come in several sizes. Each one has a drill bit size embossed on its shaft. First select a screw extractor smaller than the shank of the screw or bolt. Then you drill a hole of the size marked on the screw extractor into the top of the screw. Finally, tap the screw extractor firmly into the hole and with the special handle available for the extractors or an adjustable wrench you should be able to back the screw or bolt out.

A rusty screw that is frozen in wood can sometimes be removed more easily by heating the screw with the tip of a hot clothes iron or a soldering gun.

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PLUMBING can be such a lucrative career path – even world sports champions are reluctant to give it up.

Mark Webster is the reigning BDO World Darts Champions and scooped a check for a whopping £85,000 with his sharpshooting from the oche earlier this month.

But he has no intention of downing tools and turning to the fulltime pro circuit just yet.

“It makes sense to carry on with my plumbing,” said the spirit-level headed 24-year-old, who was back in lectures just a day after winning the world title.

Blane Judd of The Institute of Plumbing and Heating Engineering (IPHE) said plumbing is one of the “oldest and respected professions in the world.”

The IPHE have recently awarded one of its members with a Master Plumber certificate - at the age of 90.

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So you have read part 1 and have decided to take on this repair yourself.  Then let’s have at it! 

Use New Parts

You should plan on replacing all the parts that you loosen or remove during the replacement. So when shopping for a new wax ring, also buy a new water supply line and a new set of mounting bolts. The newer style flexible supply line that comes with both end nuts in place are preferred.  These parts will cost under $10. If you separate the tank and bowl, you should also buy new bolts, a new gasket and washers to re-connect the tank and bowl.

Protect any floor covering around the toilet, either remove it or cover with old towels. You will get water on the floor…count on it. If you have to turn the water supply off at the main house shutoff, fill two buckets with water. One bucket of cold water to use to drain the bowl (see below) and the other with hot water to clean the floor under the toilet and the bottom of the toilet. Finally fill your sink with warm water to wash up after handling the wax-ring.

Start by turning the water supply off. Disconnect the supply line to the tank (covered under the lessons on replacing refill valves). Flush the toilet, hold the handle down to allow as much water as possible to drain from the tank. Dump the bucket of cold water into the toilet bowl all at one time. This will leave you with just a little water in the bottom of the bowl; sponge it up.

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Signs that you have a Leaking Seal

If you have Dampness or water puddling around the base of the toilet in your bathroom. Or if water is leaking through and staining the ceiling below it is usually a sign that you have a leaking wax seal between the toilet and the drain. But before you replace the wax ring, do make sure the water is not coming from some other sources. There could also be a leaking connection under the tank or condensation on the tank may be dripping and collecting around the base of the bowl. Even a pin-hole in the drain pipe below the toilet may cause similar symptoms. 

In any case, moisture around the base of a toilet is a problem that should not be ignored. It will usually not go away by itself, and over time it can cause significant damage to the subflooring around a toilet and the ceiling below.

Before you tackle this job yourself

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